Questions About Decals
Here is a list of common questions about decals we make. Keep in mind, since all work is custom, anything is possible. Well almost anything.
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We want you to fully understand what you will receive and how our lettering works.
First the lettering is “die cut” from a large roll of vinyl. Using the dimensions requested on the order placed, it is placed on a plotter machine where the letters are die cut.
It is then removed and placed at the weeding station. Weeding is the process of removing the excess material from in between the letters. This means there is no connecting material.
The letters are placed on a wax paper backing. The backing is designed to keep the adhesive on the letters from adhering.
It then has a special transfer tape applied to the top of the lettering for protection and installation.
The lettering is spaced and aligned to the exact dimension requested. What this means is there is no background material. It means the lettering can be cut apart, except if the font requested is connected such as a cursive font style.
Your lettering will have a very nice painted-on look when installed. If you need something custom please contact us via chat or by phone. You will absolutely love our lettering – it is the best.
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Windshield curves vary greatly from model to model (so no standard arch/curve would work). If you desire to match the curve, it is best to take the extra time to lay each letter one at a time. This then would exclude letters that are joined together (i.e., cursive).
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Detailed Customer Question
If I order two decals can I get one cut opposite so it will face the correct way on the other side; so one will have to be cut reversed or “mirror” cut. Is this possible?
Both are good questions. Yes you can. Order as usual. After you order, email us the order number along with the “correction” (i.e., change one decal to mirrored of original) and we’ll make the change before production begins.
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Yes we can. There is no additional charge for chrome. However, chrome for graphics is a sensitive material. It must be waxed monthly. Because it is an actual metal foil – it will oxidize and loose its shine if not waxed. If you do this (wax the graphics monthly) it will last for many years.
And now you can also get chrome in ANY color. Just let us know.
After you order, email us, and flag the order. Let us know the order number (given at the receipt page) and let us know it is to be made chrome (or a colored chrome) and not silver.
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This is a very common question but the answer is not a simple “Yes” or “No”.
The answer depends on the paint and how it is applied to the wood. Keep in mind, in time all paint fails. The better the paint and the better it is applied (surface prepped, applied correctly and at the right temperature, etc…), the better the vinyl will stay applied.
The problem with vinyl applied to painted wood lies in not that the vinyl comes off the paint, but that the sealed paint (vinyl over it) can come loose if it is not a “good paint job” (see above description).
All this being said, most never have a problem, but because we cannot predict the quality of the painted surface, we can not guarantee the application.
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Yes. This is becoming a more common application of our product. It is a bit overkill in that our vinyl is designed for many years of outside use. You will have no problem inside.
Just make sure the surface is clean and oil free. Also, it may take more than the standard 3 days for the vinyl to fully adhere after installed – possibly up to 30 days.
This does not mean the decals and/or lettering will peel off on it’s own during the “curing” period. But kids (and others) might easily pick it off until it adheres fully.
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We can not duplicate copyrighted artwork unless given permission by the owner of the copyrighted artwork.
Customer Reply:
Yes but what if it’s a logo that I drew but isn’t exactly the same? Some people might not be able to tell the difference but does that really matter?
It matters. Sorry we can’t help.
(P.S. College and pro teams prosecute, and people go to jail for this type of stuff.)
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As far as the clear coat goes: The manufacturer does not recommend it.
That being said, everybody does it. I have been telling body shops for years not to clear coat over stripes and graphics – hardly ever though is there a problem (when they do mess up – the clear coat “pops” off the vinyl). Most body shops never have a problem, but I don’t know how they do it.
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Detailed Customer Question
I have read over the installation instructions, but I don’t understand the part about spraying the adhesive? Does that mean to spray the back that is getting attached to the glass, or the glass itself.
Good question. Do you spray the back of the decal or the surface it will go on?
Answer: It doesn’t matter. However, the more water/soap solution you spray or the stronger the soap content, the longer you will have to wait for the decal to adhere well (i.e., the longer you will have to wait to remove the top mask). In cooler weather (below 60 degrees) many don’t use any solution. If you do so in cooler weather, use very little on either the decal or intended surface. Note: do not get the wax paper wet.
If you have any other questions let us know.
Online Decal Instructions Click Here
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Yes, but it is a hard install and its durability is in question.
Install:
Wash with ammonia and then follow with denatured alcohol.
After it has dried, allow to warm in the sun for about 10 minutes, apply the graphic as usual.
Remove premask and go back over it again and again continuing to press the graphic down. Again allow to warm in the sun.
After about 10 minutes, while still warm, press the graphic down again.
Install cover on wheel.
Do not wash or handle for a few days.Durability: Wheel covers expand and contract. If the cover is tight (not loose on the wheel) it will not expand/contract a great deal and will last many years. If it flops around a great deal it may not last a long time.
If you have any other questions let me know.
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The decals will not come off till you want them off. But when you do, they come off easily.
On glass, very easy. Simply slide a razor blade under the decal. Once removed any glue can be removed with glass cleaner.
On painted surfaces a little bit more work. Pick and pick and pick with your finger nail. If in the sun it comes off better. But it does come off with no damage to the paint. Remove the glue with mineral spirits.
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Short Answer: At least 5 years with normal “use”.
However, usually much much longer. What may reduce durability to just 5 years?
1. Flat (not vertical) installation. For instance a hood graphic life expectancy is just 5 years.
2. Submerged graphics. If your graphics are installed on a boat below the waterline, life expectancy is just 5 years.
In salt water, below the water line is not recommended.3. Harsh chemicals and detergents can cause damage. This includes “wax buildup”. For instance, if you wax your graphic, lettering, etc., and leave wax along the edges, then some waxes when wet can “eat” at the edges causing damage over time. Also, just as some chemicals can cause wear on paint or plastic – they can also cause the same to the vinyl. A good rule of thumb is: If it can hurt the surface your vinyl is applied to, it can hurt the vinyl. So, as an example, lacquer thinner, acid rain, etc., WILL damage the vinyl just as it will the paint of a car.
Besides the above, you should get many many years of use from the vinyl.
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Valid concern. Your decals will do “fine” even with the windshield wipers hitting them. However, as you may have noticed, windshield wipers can pick up dirt and scratch even the windshield. So, if they scratch the windshield they will damage the decal. That being said, you should have many years of use – even with the wipers “hitting”.
Just make sure they stay clean and do not wear out.
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No. The lettering is prespaced on a wax paper sheet and then covered with a transfer tape to hold them all together (spaced as designed). Then the transfer paper and lettering is applied to the intended surface. The transfer paper is removed, leaving just the stripe or decal.
You could say that the background is “clear” in that it isn’t there. Still confused? A picture is worth a thousand words. Check out the installation link at the bottom of the page. If you still have questions, email us. We’ll be glad to help.
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Detailed Customer Question
I received my decals today and they look great. I have one problem. When I tried to apply the decal (following the instructions) and got to step 4, the decal kept sticking to the paper backing. Is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening? How can I get it to stick to the masking and not the paperback?
This happens because of high humidity; but it can be fixed.
Lay the graphic on a table with the paper on the bottom and the premask on the top and re-squeegee the premask. Then start back with step #1. It should work now.
If it went through very high humidity the wax paper can tear and stick to the vinyl but not to the premask. If this happens, it takes a delicate touch using a knife/razor blade/finger nail (or whatever you have handy) to slide between the paper and graphic where it has torn. This is rare, but it has happened.
If it messes up, let us know, and we’ll send another one out.
Online Decal Instructions Click Here
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Yes. The images online may appear to have slight jagged edges depending on your monitor and your screen resolution. Even with the best of monitors, this is a limitation of images online. The “real” decal and/or lettering will have smooth edges or lines. You may want to check out the Customer Feedback section to see actual examples.
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Excellent question. Computer monitors and phone vary greatly in the way they display colors. For instance, red can appear from tomato red to burgundy – all depending on the device.
If an exact color match is needed we can send you out a color samples right away – no charge. Just let us know where to send it. This is a great idea anyway. Color samples take the guess work out of viewing colors electronically.
If you select one of these “special” colors that are mailed to you for review, how do you order? Order as usual, after you order, email us your order number along with the ‘correction’ (i.e., “change to color code: #XXXXX”) and we’ll make the change to your order before production begins.
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Since all work is custom, we strongly encourage you to give careful attention when placing your order. Your order is custom made just for you. It could not be ‘restocked’ and later resold to anyone else. We strive to achieve fast turnaround on all orders. If you make a mistake, email us right away. We may be able to change your order before production begins. However, keep in mind, most orders mail out the same day ordered.
If your custom order is made, but then you realize something should have been different…this is very sad. We don’t like to send out products that won’t work – even if they are made how they were requested. On the other hand, we cannot absorb all mistakes.
Keeping in mind we are a small family run business, we simply can not make it again for free. Nobody wants to work for free. Then when you add the extra material and shipping spent, well, frankly, that would not be fair.
Not to overstate the issue because this is really the truth: Somebody has to pay for mistakes. We are not a big corporation. If we have to redo work for free, then yes someone in the family is not getting paid to redo the work. If material has to be used for free and shipping has to be sent for free, less money is made. In other words somebody’s paycheck will be smaller for the week. WE absorb the cost of our mistakes. While we do work on the moto: “The customer is always right”. We all still need to be fair. Still, we can help out when a customer makes a mistake.
What can we do? All that we can. This may mean a reduced price on sending out the corrected item.
So again, please pay careful attention when placing your order; and if you have any questions, let us know right away.
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This is a very common question. We really wish there was some kind of an algorithm that could be entered in for the answer.
When it comes right down to it, nothing can replace the opinion of the customer. We can give some input, but could never answer what really is a very personal question.
Let’s illustrate with windshield lettering. Some customers want little ‘tiny’ lettering in the middle of the windshield (but some customers would say even what they picked is to big) others want it to stretch all the way across from one end to another. Which is ‘right’? Which looks better? Completely a personal viewpoint. There is no wrong answer. What looks best depends completely on what you like. And well, maybe family and friends – so you may want to get their opinion. This same principle applies to other areas where size is a question (signs, decals, stripes, etc…).
What to do? The best answer is: go find a tape measure.
And then spend some time giving some careful thought to what you will like.Still having a hard time deciding? Email us, we can help some, in that we can let you know what others have ordered.
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NO!
But a couple of concerns.
Do not apply decals to “fresh” paint. Check with the painter for curing time. The paint should be cured before installation of the decal.
If after many many years, you remove the decal, the paint underneath will not have seen any “wear and tear” and will usually have a better gloss (like the day installed). And on some paint colors (i.e., red), fading of the paint where the decal was not installed is noticed for the first time. But usually, a little wax or buffing solves this problem.
Besides these two concerns, the decal will not harm your paint in any way.
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Yes – very strongly. Same material used for Semi Truck lettering and graphics. The mist is really to prevent the decals from sticking too quickly to start with. If you use the “wet method”, it will take longer for the decals to adhere completely. But, within a day or two (depending on temp) the decals will be adhered to the point, as one customer put it, “It will take an act of God to get them off.”
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The dash and interior panels are not a good idea for decal installation. They make the dashboard with oil “built in”. This is why dashboards don’t crack anymore. You could prep till your blue in the face (believe me I’ve done it) and within 2 to 3 months, oils will reappear and cause the decal (or even duck tape) to let go.
There is one option in which some of our customers have had success. Order the graphic/decal just like usual. Then after you order, email us that you’d like it “made into a stencil for an interior panel or dash”. We will then “reverse cut” the decal – meaning the inside of the decal will be what shows on the dash – the rest of the decal will have become a paint mask stencil when applied. You can use this along with interior dye (purchased from your local parts store) to achieve the look you want. Keep in mind this should be viewed as permanent. Also, we do not have any other details on this process. You may want to check with a local body shop for more details and to confirm what some of our customers have done is indeed a good idea. Let us know how it goes so we can update this Q&A. Hope this information helps.
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