Questions About Lettering
Here is a list of common questions about custom vinyl lettering. Keep in mind, since all work is custom, anything is possible. Well almost anything. Be sure to check out our Custom Vinyl Lettering Designer™.
Tons of features and materials all in one designer. If you want to make some vinyl lettering and are not sure where to look… this is the place to start designing!
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Yes. But all the letters are applied at once as one decal. After the transfer is removed, it just leaves individual letters applied.
Still confused? Here is some more background information that might make this clearer.
First the lettering is die cut from a large roll of vinyl. Using the dimensions requested on the order placed. It is placed on a plotter machine and the letters are die cut. It is then removed and placed at the weeding station. Weeding is the process of removing the excess material from in between the letters.
This means there is no connecting material. The letters are placed on a wax paper backing. The backing is designed to keep the adhesive on the letters from adhering. It then has a special transfer tape applied to the top of the lettering for protection and installation. The lettering is spaced and aligned to the exact dimension requested. What this means is there is no background material. It means the lettering can be cut apart, except if the font requested is connected such as a cursive font style.
Your lettering will have a very nice painted on look when installed. If you need something custom please contact us via chat or by phone. You will absolutely love our lettering it is the best.
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Detailed Customer Question
On your lettering, I’d like to put it on the inside. So it will have to be cut reversed or ‘mirror’ cut. Is this possible?
Yes you can. Order as usual. After you order, email us the order number along with the “correction” (i.e., change to mirrored of original) and we’ll make the change before production begins.
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Windshield curves vary greatly from model to model (so no standard arch/curve would work). If you desire to match the curve, it is best to take the extra time to lay each letter one at a time. This would exclude letters that are joined together (i.e., cursive).
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Yes you can. There is no additional charge for chrome. However, chrome for graphics is a sensitive material. It must be waxed monthly. Because it is an actual metal foil, it will oxidize and lose its shine if not waxed. If you wax the graphics monthly, it will last for many years.
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This is a very common question but the answer is not a simple “Yes” or “No”.
The answer depends on the paint and how it is applied to the wood. Keep in mind that in time all paint fails. The better the paint and the better it is applied (surface prepped, applied correctly, and at the right temperature, etc…) the better the vinyl will stay applied.
The problem with vinyl applied to painted wood lies in not that the vinyl comes off the paint, but that the sealed paint (vinyl over it) can come loose if it is not “a good paint job” (see above description).
All this being said, most never have a problem, but because we can not predict the quality of the painted surface, we can not guarantee the application.
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NO (but with a caveat)In short, we do not make vinyl lettering that uses vulgar words or phrases.
But what is a vulgar word? That seems to be a moving target. Societal norms change. Still they need to be respected. And then again, some words might not be in themselves vulgar, but the idea behind them is.
So, if the phrase is considered:
1. a curse word
2. a violent or hateful idea
… the order will be refunded.
We are NOT sticks in the mud. Sometimes we get some borderline funny boat names and we ‘let them pass’. Still it seems any ‘line in the sand’ gets pushed further and further back.
For instance, what is a curse word? What is a hateful idea? We have struggled with how to answer this over the decades. Finally, we found a simple answer: ‘Would our young children view us as hypocrites for making vinyl lettering using this word?’ If the answer is yes, then we refund the order. That is our line in the sand.
If you’re reading this, well probably something ordered crossed that line… for us. In no way does this mean we judge someone else as wrong. We just have to do what is right for us. Thank you for understanding.
Possibly the order can be changed and the curse words removed? Or maybe we can give a discount code to make up for any hassle our conscience has caused. Either way, let us know what we can do, within the confines of our conscience.
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Yes. This is becoming a more common application of our product. It is a bit overkill in that our vinyl is designed for outside use for many, many years. You will have no problem inside.
Just keep in mind to make sure the surface is clean and oil free. Also, it may take more than the standard 3 days for the vinyl to fully adhere after installed. Possibly up to 30 days.
This does not mean the decals and/or lettering will peel off on it’s own during the “curing” period. But kids (and others) might easily pick it off until it adheres fully.
If you have any questions let us know.
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As far as the clear coat goes: The manufacturer does not recommend it.
That being said, everybody does it. I have been telling body shops for years not to clear coat over stripes and graphics. Hardly ever though is there a problem – when they do mess up, the clear coat “pops” off the vinyl. Most body shops never have a problem. But I don’t know how they do it.
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Detailed Customer Question
I have read over the installation instructions, but I don’t understand the part about spraying the adhesive? Does that mean to spray the back that is getting attached to the glass, or the glass itself.
Good question. Do you spray the back of the decal or the surface it will go on?
Answer: it doesn’t matter. However, the more water/soap solution you spray or the stronger the soap content, the longer you will have to wait for the decal to adhere well (i.e., the longer you will have to wait to remove the top mask). In cooler weather (below 60 degrees F) many don’t use any solution. If you do so in cooler weather, use very little on either the decal or intended surface. Note: do not get the wax paper wet.
If you have any other questions let us know.
Online Decal Instructions Click HereHave another question about decals, signs, lettering,
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Yes – but it is a hard install and its durability is in question.
Install: Wash with ammonia and then follow with denatured alcohol. After it has dried, allow to warm in the sun for about 10 minutes. Apply the graphic as usual. Remove premask and go back over the graphic again and again continuing to press the graphic down. Again allow to warm in the sun. After about 10 minutes – while still warm – press the graphic down again. Install cover on wheel. Do not wash or handle for a few days
Durability: Wheel covers expand and contract. If the cover is tight (not loose on the wheel) it will not expand/contract a great deal and will last many years. If it flops around a great deal it may not last a long time.
If you have any other questions let me know.
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The online lettering rendering does not allow custom sizes to be rendered. However, custom sizes can be ordered.
How to order? Order as usual the closest lettering height needed. After you order email, us the order number along with the “correction” (i.e., change size to: ______) and we’ll make the change before production begins.
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The lettering will not come off till you want them off. But when you do, they come off easily.
On glass: Very easy. Simply slide a razor blade under the decal. Once removed any glue can be removed with glass cleaner.
On painted surfaces: A little bit more work. Pick and pick and pick with your finger nail. If it is placed in the sun, it comes off better. But it does come off with no damage to the paint. Remove the glue with mineral spirits.
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Short Answer: At least 5 years with normal “use”.
However, it will usually last much, much longer. What may reduce durability to just 5 years?
1. Flat (not vertical) installation. For instance a hood graphic life expectancy is just 5 years.
2. Submerged graphics. If your graphics are installed on a boat below the waterline, life expectancy is just 5 years. In salt water, installation below the water line is not recommended.
3. Harsh chemicals and detergents can cause damage. This includes “wax buildup”. For instance, if you wax your graphic, lettering, etc.. and leave wax along the edges, some waxes when wet can “eat” at the edges causing damage over time. Also, just as some chemicals can cause wear on paint or plastic, they can also cause the same to the vinyl. A good rule of thumb is: If it can hurt the surface your vinyl is applied to, it can hurt the vinyl. So, as an example, lacquer thinner, acid rain, etc.. WILL damage the vinyl just as it will the paint of a car.
Besides the above, you should get many, many years of use from the vinyl.
If you have any other questions let us know.
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Sorry to hear about the problem. Gladly, the problem can be fixed. First, it would be good to review the instructions here to see where the problem started.
As mentioned on the instructions page: “…if because of the heat or ‘bad squeegee technique’ you get bubbles, they can easily be pushed out if you used the wet method…” But, if you did not use the wet method or the decal has started to “dry” and the bubbles will not push out, these bubbles can be popped easily with a razor knife (or blade) and then pushed down. This may sound a little radical, but it’s not. If you use a sharp pointed razor knife, there will be NO evidence that the bubble was there (no blemish left on the vinyl). Professional installers do this quite regularly.
Also, it is good to keep in mind, that if the bubbles are small and numerous, changes in temperature either way (sun coming out or down) will make the air pockets draw down. So, again, if the bubbles are small, just give it a day or so, and they will go away on their own.
But, yes, the best way is to … get no bubbles to start with.
Follow the installation instructions carefully and you’ll not see a bubble anywhere.Have another question about decals, signs, lettering,
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Valid concern. Your decals will do “fine” even with the windshield wipers hitting them. However, as you may have noticed, windshield wipers can pick up dirt and scratch even the windshield. So if they scratch the windshield they will damage the lettering. That being said, you should have many years of use – even with the wipers “hitting” (just make sure they stay clean and do not wear out).
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Common Question.
As mentioned on the order page, the background is for preview purposes only. Why? The background color is the color of the intended surface (color of your car, mailbox, etc..). We don’t actually make that color.
Why, then, show the background color? It is helpful for getting a feel for how the color selected for your lettering will look on your car, mailbox, storefront, or where you have in mind.
A question that usually comes up with this question is: ‘Does this mean the background is clear vinyl?’
No. The lettering is pre-spaced on a wax paper sheet and then covered with a transfer tape to hold them all together (spaced as designed). Then the transfer paper and lettering is applied to the intended surface. Then the transfer paper is removed, leaving just the lettering.
You could say that the background is ‘clear’ in that it isn’t there 🙂 Still confused? A picture is worth a thousand words. Check out the installation page. If you still have questions, email us. We’ll be glad to help.
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Detailed Customer Question
I received my lettering today and they look great. I have one problem. I tried to apply the decal and I followed the instructions, but when I got to step 4 the decal kept sticking to the paper backing. So I am going to wait to hear back from you. Is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening? How can I get it to stick to the masking and not the paperback?
This happens because of high humidity. But it can be fixed.
Lay the graphic on a table with the paper on the bottom, the premask on the top, re-squeegee the premask. Then start back with step #1; it should work now.
If it went through very high humidity the wax paper can tear and stick to the vinyl but not to the premask. If this happens, it takes a delicate touch using a knife/razor blade/finger nail (or whatever you have handy) to slide between the paper and graphic where it has torn. This is rare, but it has happened.
If it messes up, let us know and we’ll send another one out.
Online Decal Instructions Click Here
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Excellent question. Computer monitors vary greatly in the way they display colors. For instance, red can appear from tomato red to burgundy – all depending on the monitor.
If an exact color match is needed we can send you out a color chart right away – no charge. Just let us know where to send it. This is a great idea anyway. The color chart has many colors not available online.
If you select one of these “special” colors in the color chart, but not offered online, how do you order? Order as usual, after you order, email us your order number along with the “correction” (i.e., change to pearl white) and we’ll make the change to your order before production begins.
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NO!
But a couple of concerns.
Do not apply lettering to “fresh” paint. Check with the painter for curing time. The paint should be cured before installation.
If after many, many years you remove the lettering, the paint underneath will not have seen any “wear and tear” and will usually have a better gloss (like the day installed). And on some paint colors (i.e., red), fading of the paint where the lettering was not installed is noticed for the first time. But usually a little wax or buffing solves this problem.
Besides these two concerns, the lettering will not harm your paint in any way.
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Yes – very strongly. Same material used for Semi Truck lettering and graphics. The mist is really to prevent the decals from sticking to quickly to start with. If you use the “wet method”, it will take longer for the decals to adhere completely. But, within a day or two (depending on temp) the decals will be adhered to the point, as one customer put it: “It will take an act of God to get them off.”
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Yes, … just slightly.
Why? Screen colors look different because your computer screen emits light through colors, while your vinyl lettering reflects light. Plus, how is your screen calibrated? What light is the decal seen in? These are variables that could mean there is a slight difference between what a screen shows and what real life shows.Screens use RGB colors (Red / Green / Blue) to make every color. Printers have a broader spectrum of colors using at least CMYK (with our printers offering CMYKLmLcW: Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, Black, Light Magenta, Light Cyan, White). The human eye is not limited by RGB, CMYK, or even CMYKLmLcW and therefore has an even broader spectrum than any phone or printer. A discerning human eye can see differences between the two: printer and monitor.
For example, with a side by side inspection, your truck or boat lettering could not be the ‘exact’ same color Green as what is on the screen when designing. It all has to do with “light emitting RGB” vs “light reflecting CMYK”.
Even More Details:
All monitors display color differently. Most of our designers have two to three monitors on their desk. Each monitor shows the same image color but in a different shade or hue of the color. The differences are slight but very real.Some monitors are LCD and some are LED. While a standard LCD monitor uses fluorescent backlights, an LED monitor uses light-emitting diodes for backlights so thus tend to have poorer color consistency. LED monitors typically have superior picture quality, but they come in varying backlight configurations. In addition, some backlight configurations create better images than others. For the real discerning color geek, a continually calibrated old style tube monitor can display MORE accurate colors then any other technology. But even we gave up on those a decade ago.
The way you calibrate your monitor / phone settings will have an effect on the colors you see when designing.
In Conclusion
What does all of that mean? Simply put, corresponding colors look slightly different printed in real life than they do on a computer screen, phone, or tablet. What you design (and see on the screen) will not be exactly the same color as the vinyl lettering when applied. The variance will be minor, but it is important to know there will be a difference.What if I need an ‘exact’ match?
If it is imperative that you match certain colors exactly, we can provide physical color samples for your final approval. The cost of these samples is $15 (up to 10 color codes). Enter your sample color codes here:
On the other hand:
– Don’t want to wait on samples to be mailed
– The color does not have to match exactly
Start Designing Your Custom Vinyl Lettering
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The dash and interior panels are not a good idea for decal installation. They make the dash with oil “built in”. This is why dashes don’t crack anymore. You could prep till your blue in the face (believe me I’ve done it) and within 2 to 3 months oils will reappear and cause the decal (or even duck tape) to let go.
There is one option in which some of our customers have had success. Order the graphic/decal just like usual. Then after you order, email us that you’d like it “made into a stencil for an interior panel or dash.” We will then “reverse cut” the decal (meaning the inside of the decal will be what shows on the dash). The rest of the decal will have become a paint mask stencil when applied. You can use this along with interior dye (local parts store) to achieve the look you want. Keep in mind this should be viewed as permanent. Also, we do not have any other details on this process. You may want to check with a local body shop for more details and to confirm what some of our customers have done is indeed a good idea. Let us know how it goes so we can update this question/answer. Hope this information helps.
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