Questions About Application
It can be exciting get your custom graphic in the mail. And also a little scary. Can you do it? Will you mess up? No worries. We got ya!
Checkout these common application questions. Later if you’re still concerned. Call / Text / email us and we will walk you through the application.
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As far as the clear coat goes: The manufacturer does not recommend it. That being said, everybody does it. We have been telling body shops for years not to clear coat over stripes and graphics – hardly ever though is there a problem (when they do mess up – the clear coat “pops” off the vinyl). Most body shops never have a problem.
But again it is not recommended. The lettering will expand and contract at a different rate than the surface… ever so slightly. Enough though, it could cause the clear top coat to ‘pop’ off in unusual ways. But really, though, a top coat is not needed for durability.
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Yes, possibly. Surface prep is key and adhesion will need tested first.
Why? Some plastics/rubbers/etc.. have ‘oil built in’ so that no matter how much you prep, in a short period of time, the decal will ‘fall off’ 🙁 very bad.
How to test? Prep the surface first (follow online instructions ) and then apply something like duck tape. Give it a few days. If it adheres well, no problem on the vinyl decal.
Also, it would be a good idea to allow the decal to ‘cure’ for 30 days before deflating – otherwise it may peel up on the creases while in storage.
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Windshield curves vary greatly from model to model (so no standard arch/curve would work). If you desire to match the curve, it is best to take the extra time to lay each letter one at a time. This then would exclude letters that are joined together (ie – cursive).
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Yes!Smaller decals lettering and graphics (under 400 square inches) are a ‘piece of cake’! The most you can do wrong is drop them while installing or install them crooked. So, take your time, follow the instructions, and you’ll have no problem.
Larger decals, lettering, and graphics (over 400 square inches) can also be installed by a novice first time installer. Squeegee technique becomes more of an issue. But again, take your time, follow the detailed instructions and you WILL have no problem.
Take a deep breath, you’ll be done by the time you take another.
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This is a very common question but the answer is not a simple “Yes” or “No”.
The answer depends on the paint and how it is applied to the wood. Keep in mind, in time all paint fails. The better the paint and the better it is applied (surface prepped, applied correctly and at the right temperature, and etc…), the better the vinyl will stay applied.
The problem with vinyl applied to painted wood lies in not that the vinyl comes off the paint, but that the sealed paint (vinyl over it) can come loose if it is not ‘good paint job’*(see above description).
Also, some paint has additives that prevent dirt and grime from sticking or to prevent mold from growing. Rarely, this can also be a problem with ANYTHING sticking to the paint (if something like duct tape will not stick, neither will our decals/lettering/graphics)
All this being said, most never have a problem, but because we cannot predict the quality of the painted surface, we cannot guarantee the application.
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For washing, you need to wait a couple days in the winter. Just one day in the summer (let it get some sun). If you use the ‘wet method’ for installation double the waiting period.
For waxing, wait 5 days. If you used the wet method or installed during winter time, wait 10 days. But be careful! Some waxes have strong solvents and cleaners that can eat at the edge of the vinyl. Especially if you allow wax buildup on the edge, can this become a problem. That being said, be careful and you’ll do just fine. Note: while waxing may not hurt the decal, the decal does not need waxing.
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Yes. This is becoming a more common application of our product. It is a bit overkill in that our vinyl is designed for outside use for many many years. You will have no problem inside.
Just keep in mind to make sure the surface is clean and oil free. Also, it may take more than the standard 3 days for the vinyl to fully adhere after installed. Possibly up to 30 days.
This does not mean the decals and/or lettering will peel off on it’s own during the ‘curing’ period. But kids (and others) might easily pick it off until it adheres fully.
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UPDATED
CamoWraps is discontinued. Over the decades we have only offered the best of the best.- Technology moves forward
- Tastes change
- Custom made wraps are more economical and easy to make ‘one off’ just for you
For these reasons, CamoWraps is no longer offered.
It depends on the kit. Some kits do come pre fitted (gun kits – which still need some trimming and some ATVs can be ordered ‘die cut’). While CamoWraps may not like us saying this, with regard to the ATV die cut kits: ‘why bother’. Order one of the regular unfitted kits, and if you have a mess up – your not stuck a piece short. Since the unfitted kits always have extra – enough for at least one mistake. Not that anybody would ever mess upThe vehicle kits do not come pre-fitted. And again, this really is an advantage. Besides the extra material, there are no ‘registration’ worries. If, say a fender where precut there would be worries about starting to lay on one end and having the other end short – because you started a little off or at an angle. It is much better to apply one big oversized sheet and then after applied – trim the edges. Much better.Sheets come in 4’x5′ panels and do not need the pattern matched exactly from one section or panel to another. But if you do have to cover a large section and need to but together two pieces (ie roof or hood) – it looks better to register the two pieces – a lot like you would do wallpaper – so that the pattern matches. But between say a door and fender, no need to match patterns exactly. However, keep in mind there is an ‘up’ to each pattern. You should start with the patterns shadow on the bottom on each piece. But lets say you star with the patterns shadow on the left. At least make sure each following piece has that same shadow direction. This is easy to tell. Look for the patterns logo stamp – and keep each sheets logo angled the same way. If you do this, even if get ‘up’ pointing ‘down’, no one will notice.If you have any other questions – even during the installation, let us know. We’ll be glad to help.
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Yes – but it is a hard install and its durability is in question.
Install: wash with ammonia and then follow with denatured alcohol, after it has dried, allow to warm in the sun for about 10 minutes, apply the graphic as usual, remove pre mask and go back over the again and again continuing to press the graphic down, again allow to warm in the sun, after about 10 minutes – while still warm press the graphic down again. install cover on wheel. Do not wash or handle for a few days
durability: wheel covers expand and contract. If the cover is tight (not loose on the wheel) it will not expand / contract a great deal and will last many years. If it flops around a great deal it may not last a long time.
If you have any other questions let me know.
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Gulp! The last thing you want to do is get too eager to install your cool new decal, lettering, or graphic and end up ruining your paint.Paint drying and curing times vary from paint to paint, and even on how the painter sprayed the paint (how much and how many additives were added, how many coats were applied, how long between coat, and… the list goes on). To be sure, double check with the painter. No doubt he has run into this question about his paint jobs before.
General rule is: ‘at least 30 days’. Very rarely, less time than this will work. Usually because extra hardner was added to the paint to speed the curing time. However, we have been told some paint jobs need 90 days to cure before application of the graphics. But, again, the safe bet is to check with the painter – he should know.
Why be concerned about this? During the curing process, the paint will continue to change (shrink and expand and even change chemically) and shed solvents and thinners. If the paint is ‘sealed’ by a graphic before this can happen, undesired results can occur. If the paint is just days old, besides the paint messing up, the graphic may not stay adhered to the surface. If the paint is cured to the touch and appears to be cured, but a strong solvent smell can still be smelled coming off the paint, and a graphic is applied the paint may discolor under the graphic – since the solvents that need to evaporate are now trapped. Of course this is not a problem, as long as the graphic is NEVER removed. But, don’t go this route. Follow the painters instructions and WAIT until you have the green light to apply the graphic to the fresh paint.
SIDE NOTE: Vinyl graphics will never harm the paint – if the paint is cured. Even on un-cured fresh paint, some have gambled and applied the graphics and had no problems. The above information is provided as a precautionary concern.
CAUTION: For applying decals on exterior signs that have fresh paint, even more caution is in order. Latex and general oil based paints that are brushed or rolled on are NOT recommended for exterior sign applications. Ideally use a professional sign board. If you have an existing sign and want to freshen it up by painting and applying new lettering and logos, first paint with a high quality automotive paint. Again, do not use rolled on latex or oil based paints. The durability will probably be an issue even in the short-term.
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The decals will not come off till you want them off 🙂 But when you do, they come off easily.
On glass, very easy. Simply slide a razor blade under the decal. Once removed any glue can be removed with glass cleaner. On painted surfaces a little bit more work. Pick and pick and pick with your finger nail. If in the sun it comes off better. But it does come off with no damage to the paint. Remove the glue with mineral spirits.
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At times, because of shipping or production limitations or to ease installation, some decals need to be produced spliced and installed in two (or more) pieces.
First, it is good to note that on these EXTRA large decals (over 26″x26″ in both directions) a spliced installation is easier than ‘man handling’ one giant decal.
How to install?
1. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the detailed installation instructions
for non-spliced decals.2. Lay out both pieces exactly where you would like to install, and tape down the edges (NOTE: To ease registration production includes a 1/4″ splice overlap)
3. Remove one decal and install the remaining decal as described here
4. The final piece will now need to be installed with the wet-method as described in the note in step 5
” Before squeegeeing but after exposing the adhesive, you can use a squirt bottle with water and a couple of drops “Joy” , “Dawn”, or Baby Shampoo in the bottle to mist slightly the adhesive (do not get the wax-paper backing wet). This is especially a good idea if your graphic is a layered two color decal. Then, if because of the heat or ‘bad squeegee technique’, you have bubbles, they can then be pushed out easily. DO NOT use Windex for this (it will ‘eat’ at the adhesive).
This is called ‘floating’ the decal (allowing a layer of liquid to float the decal to exactly where it needs to be before squeegeeing). Turn your decal upside down on a clean dry surface, remove the paper liner, and spray the solution onto the glue side. Since exact registration is key between the two pieces, be liberal with the spray solution, applying to both the back side of the decal and the intended surface. After you have slid your decal so it registers exactly with the first decal, squeegee down and continue to follow the remaining installation instructions.
For a first time installer, this can seem overwhelming. But, take your time, follow these directions carefully and you’ll have success and a major sense of accomplishment…. and a cool decal!
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Rivets/screws — are not fun. The best approach is to initially lay as if they are not there (trying to squeegee down without tweaking the vinyl that is on top of the rivets) Then after carefully removing the pre-mask — but before the vinyl is pressed down around the edges of the rivets) slightly warm the vinyl with a hair dryer. As the vinyl softens (and you warm gradually) press down the tented vinyl till it is all applied. After all the vinyl is down, really apply the heat to set the adhesive. This detailed explanation of a process that takes less than a minute is not hard, just follow these instructions exactly and you’ll do fine.
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Application fluid goes by various names. Rapid Tac and Sure Glide are both brands we have used in the past. Currently we make our own. This gives us more control since depending on the time of the year, the application fluid will work differently. What is the recipe?
- 1 gallon of distilled water
(not city water with added chemicals, not mineral water, well, with added minerals. Pure and simple distilled water will not leave any chemical residue under your graphic) - 1.5 ounces to 2 ounces of baby shampoo
(Nothing fancy. No detangler, no added fragrances, no coloring. The simpler the better.)In the summer increase the amount of baby shampoo up to 2 ounces. With cooler weather even just 1 ounce is more than enough. Really in cold weather the wet application method is not ideal (it can take a long time to adhere). The more baby shampoo the slower the drying time.
- 1 ounce of denatured alcohol
(Denatured alcohol increases adhesion. So less to none in the summer or real hot days)
That’s it! 3 ingredients and you have the best application fluid possible. Pour some in a squirt bottle and spray as a fine mist to either the surface or the back side of the graphic. This will give you time to get the graphic lined up exactly the way you want and minimize any effects of bad squeegeeing techniques.
Click here for detailed installation instructions
Ok, some warnings:
Baby shampoo allows the graphic to slide around and/or prevents bubbles from getting locked under the graphic. A little goes a long way. Keep in mind, if you are not diligent in squeegeeing over and over the graphic, residue could be left under the graphic. While the baby shampoo is PH neutral, still in time, it could break down and either eat at the adhesive or prevent the adhesive from sticking well. This is extremely rare. Even installers that are liberal in the amount they use or are lax in squeegeeing after application rarely, if ever, have a problem. Still too much can cause problems. Don’t overdo the baby shampoo.
Denatured alcohol promotes drying so the graphic will adhere faster. In combination with the baby shampoo which first allows the graphic to slide around, after a few minutes the denatured alcohol kicks in and helps the adhesive to grab hold. A similar concern with alcohol as with the shampoo. Too much and it could eat at the glue. Don’t overdo the denatured alcohol.
To much trouble? Order our application kit which comes with a bottle of application fluid made with our world famous recipe.
- 1 gallon of distilled water
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UPDATED
CamoWraps is discontinued. Over the decades we have only offered the best of the best.- Technology moves forward
- Tastes change
- Custom made wraps are more economical and easy to make ‘one off’ just for you
In comparison to other vinyl – very easy. But, it can be very time consuming.Why is it ‘easy’?First, CamoWraps uses 3M Control Tac vinyl. What this means is, if you get a wrinkle, crease, or bubble you can lift the vinyl back up and re-squeegee. You can do this over and over again – until it sits in the sun and ‘cures’ for a couple of hours (then its not going anywhere!) Very nice.Second, it’s camouflage. 🙂 If you do get a bubble, you can’t see it. This is good – because you could let any small bubbles ‘go’. No one will ever see. (but bad in that it takes awhile of ‘feeling around’ to find them all and pop with a pin knife). Also, because it’s camouflage, splices are very very hard to see. The pattern hides splices very well. This is good, because usually some are needed. It’s good to think of a vehicle or ATV as a gift that needs to be wrapped. Some splices or folds are needed. While it’s always good to put them in a hidden place, it’s good to know, even if the splices are ‘right in the open’, they probably will not be seen.Can you install CamoWraps? Tougher question. It’s not really an issue of skill but mind set. If you were one of those kids that liked building model cars or other detailed work – this will be you cup of tea. It does take paitence and alot of time (most vehicle wraps about 40 man hours). That being said, because of the above advantages of CamoWraps, a beginner really is as good (and fast) as an experienced installer.Where does all the time go (in the installation)?
Mostly in prep and clean up work. For the best looking install on a vehicle or ATV it is good to remove as many accessories as possible (brake lights, grills, etc..). Then, take your time prepping the surface (fancy way to say cleaning the truck). On a vehicle pay particular attention to the fender wells and areas like this. If there ever is a problem with peeling, it will be in one of these greasy dirty areas that didn’t get cleaned. If you clean the ‘edges’ well and take your time doing it, you will get many many years from the CamoWraps.Have another question about decals, signs, lettering,
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Our vinyl usually does well.Why just ‘usually’ and not ‘always’? There are some concerns to keep in mind.
The inside of exterior walls have bigger temp changes. This means the wall expands and contracts (and the vinyl does also but at a different rate). One surface expanding or contracting faster than the other can cause tension on the adhesive between the two surfaces. Also, some exterior walls can have condensation issues. Both of these can cause an issue where the decal wants to peel off (not adhere).
But with peeling decals (the decal not adhering to the wall), it’s not a horrible issue. Since just patting it down (after it dries or the temps become more consistent outside and inside) and it will do good for months to come.
As far as removing the decals and messing up the paint. This is rarely a problem. If it happens, it is because:
1. The decal was applied for a long time (many years) and really bonded.
2. The decal experienced high temps for a long time (no AC running in the summer)
3. The decal was applied to new paint that had not cured (gassed off)
4. The paint job was not done well.
So on that last point, if any of the layers of paint are cheap paint or applied on a surface not prepared to be painted, it doesn’t take much for the paint to peel in general. Seal low quality paint with a decal and this can make a weak point for peeling, especially when removed later. Even with this issue, take your time and be very gentle peeling a decal off of bad paint and you’ll have no problems.Keep the above in mind and you’ll have no worries. The decal will not peel off the wall (until you want it off the wall). The paint will not peel off the wall when removing the decal.
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Good question. Because of the temperature changes that can occur during shipping, the pre-mask can curl. Or, if the decal is left rolled-up in the box for a long time, the decal may want to not lay out flat.
Either way, lay the decal on a flat surface (kitchen table) and re-squeegee the pre-mask. This will help the decal to once again lay flat and for the pre-mask to stick to the decal. (the pre-mask will not and is not made to stick to the wax paper)
If you have any questions about this… let us know.
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Good question. First, we are not lawyers (thankfully) and do not offer legal advice. The following may be good food for thought.
Laws do vary from state to state. For that manner, application of laws vary from county to county and city to city. Even from officer to officer.
Generally speaking, it seems, if you do not block the driver’s view of the road, then most decals and stripes should be just fine. To our knowledge, the only concern is in the laws governing decals on your vehicle’s glass, not on the body of your vehicle.
We can not be responsible for where decals, graphics, and lettering are installed. Nor can we keep track of how different areas apply the many conflicting vehicle laws. That being said, we have sold tens of thousands of decals and less than a handful of customers have had problems. And most of these were because of the decal being installed in a way that obviously impaired visibility or because of the way the ‘citizen’ reacted to the officer (so be nice). Think it through and be careful.
Check your local laws if your thinking about purchasing a decal and that will be applied to the glass of your vehicle.
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Valid concern. Your decals will do ‘fine’ even with the windshield wipers hitting them. However, as you may have noticed, windshield wipers can pick up dirt and scratch even the windshield. So, if they scratch the windshield they will damage the lettering. That being said, you should have many years of use – even with the wipers ‘hitting’ (just make sure they stay clean and do not wear out).
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Detailed Customer Question
I was recently given a set of your side body graphics as a gift for my car. I plan to have someone locally install them for me. What is a generally acceptable price for this kind of installation as I do not want to be taken advantage of.
Answer
Our retail installation cost for our shop here is: $80 -$120I looked your order up (only graphic order for a ‘gift” since Christmas). If I got the right order, you have a white step-side truck. If so, yours’ is probably one of the harder installs because of your bed. The actual install time for use here would be under 2 hours.
We recommend looking up in your phone book Auto Trim Express or Trim-Line for the installation. They are usually honest and fair (but maybe a little high). They install car dealer stripes. Many of them are mobile – and can come to you.
For a cheaper price, try a body shop. A good car painter finds this stuff easy. Similar mind set and attention to detail is needed for both kinds of work.
Hope this helps. Send us a picture when its done, and we’ll post it to our online gallery!
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There are several points to keep in mind. But first, before the ‘horror stories’, it is good to know that most folks ‘slap on the signs and forget’ and never have a problem. That being said, a few points.
1. Fresh paint should not have magnetic signs.
Fresh paint gives off solvents for some time. If the paint is sealed (either with a wax or magnetic sign) the paint can darken where sealed. This is permanent. How long should paint ‘cure’? It varies depending on the quality of the paint. But at least 30 days on all paints. Cheaper paint – up to a year! Factory paint or fully cured paint – never any problems like this.2. Both surfaces must be clean. If a dirt and grime are on the back of the magnetic or on the paint, this can rub on the paint. In time, leaving faint scratch marks. While it is nothing that a little buffing can’t take care of, why risk the problem. Clean the paint and magnetics before applying. And from time to time (when you wash your truck or car) take a moment to clean both surfaces.
3. Ideally, the magnetics should be stored flat and someplace warm. If you ‘throw in the back of the truck on a cold day’ – later when you pick them up and try to apply they could either crack (if real cold) or not conform to the surface and later blow off. Again, if possible, store in a warm area and keep flat. If they do get cold and where left ‘balled up’, warm up and gently work with till flat once again. Again, not likely to ever have this problem, but it is good to know.
4. Finally, while it is very rare, in cold/freezing/wet weather magnetic can come off – and be lost – as you go down the road. It seems that water gets under the magnetics and when it freezes, lifts the magnetics loose. Again, very rare, but it has happened. It’s best to remove in wet winter weather.
All the above being said, all these ‘horror stories’ are very rare. Most folks ‘slap on a forget’. If you take just a few precautions you’ll have many years of use from your magnetics.
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Detailed Customer Question
I have read over the installation instructions, but I don’t understand the part about spraying the adhesive? Does that mean to spray the back that is getting attached to the glass, or the glass itself.
Good question. Do you spray the back of the decal or the surface it will go on?
Answer: it doesn’t matter. However, the more water/soap solution you spray, or the stronger the soap content, the longer you will have to wait for the decal to adhere well (ie – the longer you will have to wait to remove the top mask) In cooler weather (below 60) many don’t use any solution. If you do so, in cooler weather, use very little on either the decal or intended surface. Note: do not get the wax paper wet.
If you have any other questions let us know.
Online Decal Instructions Click Here -
Detailed Customer Question
I received my decals today and they look great. I have one problem. When I tried to apply the decal, and I followed the instructions. When I got to step 4 the decal kept sticking to the paper backing. So I am going to wait to hear back from you. Is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening. How can I get it to stick to the masking and not the paperback?
This happens because of high humidity. But it can be fixed.
Lay the graphic on a table with the paper on the bottom, the pre mask on the top, re-squeegee the pre mask. Then start back with step #1, it should work now.
If it went through very high humidity the wax paper can tear and stick to the vinyl but not to the pre mask. If this happens, it takes a delicate touch using a knife/razor blade/finger nail (or whatever you have handy) to slide between the paper and graphic where it has torn. This is rare, but it has happened.
If it messes up, let us know, and we’ll send another one out.
Online Decal Instructions Click Here
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Good question. My business partner is by trade a carpenter. One time he went out and installed door truck lettering on 10 truck. By the time he came back to the shop, they had called complaining they were all crooked. He assured me they measured straight (he was a little insulted – after all – he’s a carpenter). Well I went out an glanced at them, quickly went inside and told them – We will change them out right away.
Lesson learned: You can measure all you want, from wherever you want – at some point in time you just got to stand back and go with what ‘looks right’.
Generally its best to measure off of the closest straight line (top or bottom), stand back and correct slightly for the optical illusion that makes it appear crooked.
As I told my partner, in the end, it doesn’t matter how it measures but how it looks.
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Yes – very strongly. Same material used for Semi Truck lettering and graphics. The mist is really to prevent the decals from sticking to quickly to start with. If you use the ‘wet method’, it will take longer for the decals to adhere completely. But, within a day or two (depending on temp) the decals will be adhered to the point, as one customer put it, ‘it will take an act of God to get them off’
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Short answer: Our decals stick better than duct tape. But there are some surfaces they will not stick to. Most of these concerns are taken care of with good preparation (removing all residues and oils). Still some surfaces are oily on purpose! No matter how well you prep the surface, nothing sticks. This helps dirt and grime not stick. Generally that is a good thing. But not for decals.
How to tell if the decal will stick? Use the duct tape test:
1. Prepare the surface
2. Apply a piece of duct tape
3. Wait a day or twoIf the tape is still stuck very well, a decal will also stick very well.
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The dash and interior panels are not a good idea for decal installation. They make the dash with oil ‘built in’. This is why dashes don’t crack anymore. You could prep till your blue in the face (believe me I’ve done it) and within 2 to 3 months, oils will reappear and cause the decal (or even duck tape) to let go.
There is one option in which some of out customers have had success. Order the graphic / decal just like usual, then after you order, email us that you’d like it ‘made into a stencil for an interior panel or dash’. We will then ‘reverse cut’ the decal – meaning the inside of the decal will be what shows on the dash – the rest of the decal will have become a paint mask stencil when applied. You can use this along with interior dye (local parts store) to achieve the look you want. Keep in mind this should be viewed as permanent. Also, we do not have any other details on this process. You may want to check with a local body shop for more details and to confirm what some of our customers have done, is indeed a good idea. Let us know how it goes so we can update this question / answer. Hope this information helps.
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